Bilang bahagi ng kasaysayan ng Pilipinas, narito ang isang serye kaugnay sa pagunlad ng mga kasuotan sa Maynila (at sa Pilipinas) mula noong ika-16 na siglo (1500s), hanggang sa kalagitnaan ng ika-20 na siglo (1900s).
Ang pananamit ng mga sinaunang Pilipino ay lubhang naiiba sa pananamit ngkasalukuyan. Noon, ang mga lalaki ay nakabahag ngunit may kanggan, na pang-itaas, na maikliang manggas at itim o asul na kamisang walang kuwelyo. Ang kulay ng kamisa ang nagpapakilala kung ano ang antas o ranggo ng nagsusuot noon: kung pula ay nangangahulugangdatu ang may-suot; kung asul o bughaw o kung itim ay nabibilang sa uring mababa kaysa datu.Sa kabilang dako, ang pananamit ng mga babae ay binubuo ng pang- itaas na kung tawagi‟y baro at ng pang- ibaba na kung tawagi‟y saya. Sa Kabisayaan, ang tawag dito‟y patadyong.
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Ang istilo ng pananamit at pang-unawa ng mga Pilipino sa makabagong panahon ay naimpluwensyahan ng kanilang mga katutubong ninuno, ang mga kolonisador ng Espanya at ng mga Amerikano, na pinatunayan ng kronolohiya ng mga pangyayaring naganap sa kasaysayan ng Pilipinas.
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Noo‟y walang sapatos ang mga tao, kaya‟t ang lahat ay nakatapak. Gayunman, ang ulo‟ymay putong, na anupa‟t isang kayong damit na nakabilibid sa ulo. Sa kulay ng putong nakikilalaang “pagkalalaki”: kung pula ang putong, ang may -suot ay nakapatay na ng isang tao; kung mayburda ang putong, ang may-suot nito ay nakapatay na ng maraming tao. Ang mga babae ay hindinaglalagay ng putong, ngunit ang kanilang buhok ay nakapusod.
The outfit featured here was inspired by the illustrations of the Boxer Codex, a book from 1600 that features illustrations of early colonial indigenous societies.
The second part of our series presents fashion in Manila during the 1600s or 17th century, in the first century of Spanish rule. It shows both Spanish and native fashion.
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Isang serye kaugnay sa pagunlad ng mga kasuotan sa Maynila mula noong ika-16 na siglo (1500s), hanggang sa kalagitnaan ng ika-20 na siglo (1900s).
Sa ikalawang bahagi ng ating serye ng paskil ukol sa mga kasuotan sa Maynila, ating bibigyang tutok ang mga kasuotan noong unang siglo ng pananakop ng mga Espanyol.
Due to the lack of readily available visual references, this artwork was based mainly on Spanish paintings from the period, including those by Diego Velasquez. It shows a more or less average attire, with the important parts. Of course, these costumes varied depending on the wealth and social standing of the individual.
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Basic parts included the doublet, which was carried over from the 16th century. These would be replaced by loose shirts and long coats by the last part of the 17th century. The ruffs of the 16th century were replaced by linen and silk collars. Breeches were worn together with stockings and shoes.. When travel and outdoor activities were involved, riding gloves for the hands and leather boots would have been worn, with spurs should one be riding horses. Cavalier hats, broad-rimmed hats with feathers and ribbons, were also worn. Swords were also worn and carried around, together with sashes and capes.
As for hairstyles, hair up to the neck was fashionable in the early part of the 17th century, but would soon be replaced by longer hair by the middle of the 1600s. Long curly wigs would become fashionable by the end of the 167th century.
Due to the lack of readily available visual references, this artwork was based mainly on Spanish paintings from the period, including those by Diego Velasquez. It shows a more or less average attire, with the important parts. Of course, these costumes varied depending on the wealth and social standing of the individual. There would have also been variations due to climate conditions.
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The bodice worn on top had a corset which gave the wearer the fashionable silhouette. The lower half of the dress consisted of the hoop skirt or the guarda infante which a carry-over from the Renaissance, although it stayed fashionable in Spain well into the 17th century.
Hairstyles varied but mostly involved long curls, up to the shoulder, or were bunched together and kept by ribbons with floral decorations.
This artwork was based on the Bankoku Sozu, a world map from 1670 Japan which also featured illustrations of people. In addition to this several journals in the 17th century, Manila also provided textual reference.
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By the 1600s, natives in Manila were already copying Spanish attire, replacing g-strings with breaches and loose shirts. Putongs or headdresses were also being phased out in favor of hats, although it must be noted that natives already possessed several types of hats prior to colonization.
Women's attire in Manila still shows resemblance to attires from the 1500s. However, the details were becoming simpler, although the pieces were still the same.
Ang ikatlong bahagi ng serye tungkol sa mga ksutan sa Maynila ay dadalhin tayo sa kalagitnaan ng ika-18 na siglo o 1700s. Narito ang ilang guhit upang magbigay ng ideya kaugnay ng mga kasuotan ng ilan sa mga mamamayan ng Maynila, gaya ng mga mestizo at Kastila. Ang mga kasutoan ay ibinatay sa ilang dibujo, kagaya ng mga guhit sa Mapang Murillo Velarde at Bagay, at mga dibuho mula sa Tsina.
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Men's fashion in the middle of the 18th century had evolved from the tight doublets of the 15th and 16th century, into long and loose coats. The iconic hat of the period was the tricorne hat or the tres picos hat which was a hat with its brim held in such a way that it had three points. Men wore wigs. wigs in the late 1600s to the early 1700s were longer, but by the middle and up to the end of the 1700s, the powdered wigs became shorter, featuring side curls and a ponytail.
Women's attire in Manila echoed those in Europe as well as Mexico, although these were interpreted with local materials to adjust to the climate. This illustration features a bodice with a low neckline, and with sleeves up to the elbows and decorated with laces. The hair was worn and kept up, and decorated with ribbons and other materials.
Unless a source from the period directly says Tricorne or Tricorno, the proper term is cocked hat - it is a round wide-brimmed hat that is 'cocked'.
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While early 18th-century frock coats were fairly long they did not have a cape automatically attached to them. That would be worn by a cord at the neck and hung down the back of one of the sides.
Native women's attire was still similar to those worn in the previous century, which in terms could be seen as simpler versions of those worn in eh 16th century.
I doubt that this style (which is more mid 17th century NOT mid-1700's - could this be a typo) would still be in vogue even in the colonies by the MID-18th Century. At best you would see Louis XIV/Peter the Great-era styles. The Bourbon monarchy which took over after the War of Spanish Succession began a modernization program that reached its zenith under Carlos III and this would have affected clothes as well.
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This is F.R.Hidalgo's painting of the assassination of Governor-General Bustamante in 1719. The clothes here are representative of the War of Spanish Succession Era moving on toward the ACTUAL Mid 18th Century. You have longer waistcoats and frock coats which will slowly but inexorably shorten as the century moves on. You have knee breeches that are less baggy and more form-fitting.
Linen shirts were not button up all the way as depicted, they had an opening for the neck and head that went probably down to the bottom of the chest which, if one was wealthy, would have ruffles and lace and could be closed at the neck. Cuffs would have ruffles and lace if one was rich or be plain but flared if not.
Everything about the infographic points to the middle of the 17th century, not the mid 18th century. Or maybe the Chinese source got their information wrong.
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No western/westernized woman would be caught dead wearing BREECHES. Women did not have panties, bloomers, or any sort of lower underwear until something like the middle of the 19th century.
Ang ikaapat na bahagi ng serye tungkol sa mga kasuotan sa Maynila ay tungkol sa mga kasuotan sa siyudad noong unang kalahat at kalagitnaan ng 1800s. Ang kagandahan sa panahong ito ay marami nang mga mapagbabatayan na mga dibuho at mga likhang sining na isinasalarawan ang mag kasuotan at ang mundo ng Maynila noong 1800s.
Although the look and composition of Native wear remained similar to that from the 18th century, changes did occur in terms of the figure as well as materials available due to the opening of Manila's ports (to be followed by other port cities in the country).
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The 1800s saw Manila's ports being opened to wider international trade and commerce. This allowed the principalia and the mestizo elite to engage in business as well as access materials and the latest fashion trends from Europe. The mestizos adopted European silhouettes using native materials, augmented by imported fabrics such as those from Britain.
Although the look and composition of Native wear remained simial to that from the 18th century, changes did occur
